Photos by Adam DeTour

As one of New England’s hottest summers on record comes to an end, Worcesterites begin breathing sighs of relief as the first signs of autumn appear. Slanted shadows linger a bit longer on the Sprinkler Factory’s brick facade, yellowing leaves start to rustle and fall and KrafTea Kombucha starts fermenting vats of sweetened green tea to make their fall favorites.

Founder Matthew Glidden, to slightly modify a well-known idiom, is truly a jack-of-all-trades and master of one: kombucha. Currently, he is the “brewer, sales representative and delivery person,” says Matt. At first taste he was immediately smitten with kombucha and, because he couldn’t find the kind he liked, he started making it himself.

“As I perfected my recipe my friends and neighbors kept drinking it, so I had to make larger batches,” says Matt. Five years ago, when he was given his first SCOBY (pronounced SKOH-bee) from a “friend of a friend on a community list,” he began making his own in small batches. At the time he had no way of knowing his passion would morph into a thriving business, one that takes up 5,000 square feet of space in a revitalized factory building that, in its heyday, was known for its production of automatic sprinkler devices and fog foam. If George I. Rockwood, president and treasurer of the Rockwood Sprinkler Company of yesteryear, were alive today he’d likely be toasting Matt with a glass of booch.

Although Matt grew up in New York, he’s lived here 10 years. In his early career he worked for mapping companies, which gave him the opportunity to move frequently. Fortunately for kombucha lovers, he was eventually laid off from his office job. This new freedom forced him to reevaluate, taking various jobs in the service industry that gave him time to develop his own business, build up contacts and gain a better understanding of the ever-changing beverage industry.

Matt had been a beer homebrewer since college, so once he moved to the Heart of the Commonwealth, he joined the WIZARDS Home-Brew Club. It was a great way for him to develop his craft. He also spent many hours volunteering at beer festivals where he picked the brains of professional brewers. But, the craft beer market is crowded and highly competitive, and although he loves beer, Matt loves kombucha more. He wanted to make a product he’d enjoy, and gluten-free folks could drink.

He’s primarily a self-taught kombucha brewer. Fellow brewers he met along the way were extremely friendly and never shied away from sharing what they knew. Books, tutorials, YouTube videos and lots of trial and error, helped Matt gain a better understanding of what makes a SCOBY (the Symbiotic Culture Of Bacteria and Yeast that gets fermentation started) so darn fascinating.

“It’s a living thing. You just give it what it needs [food and air] and it takes care of the rest.” says Matt. When left to its own devices the slimy, globular disk produces a lightly carbonated, slightly alcoholic drink (2% alcohol by volume or ABV).The SCOBY might not look very pretty to the untrained eye, but to someone who has educated himself in the benefits of good for your gut bacteria, it’s a wonderland. Rich in antioxidants, probiotics, organic acids and B vitamins, kombucha is a powerhouse.

“Our customers are educated enough that they are already seeking more healthy bacteria and we are just providing them a tasty way to consume it,” says Matt.

Matt set up shop here because he felt immediately drawn to the city’s entrepreneurial vibe and receptiveness to “people pursuing their passions.” He chose the Sprinkler Factory building because of its architecture and history. “I like the feeling of connection to the many people who have made things in the space for the past 200 years and the people who are making things there today,” says Matt.

KrafTea uses predominantly local, organic ingredients. “I get my tea from David Fullerton, head roaster and green coffee and tea buyer from Acoustic Java. He presented me with a variety of teas and from that we developed a proprietary blend that we use in all of our kombuchas. It’s our one trade secret,” says Matt. “The kombucha base is a blend of organic tea and organic evaporated cane juice. Much of that sugar is consumed in the fermentation process. After fermentation, additional sweeteners can be provided by the addition of juices, infusions and tisanes. Some flavors have no additional sweetness. The balance of sweet and sour comes from scientific measurement and the brewer’s palate,” says Matt.

Although kombucha has been around for thousands of years, only recently has interest in healthy bacteria enjoyed a resurgence. “What makes our kombucha different from our competitors’,” says Matt, “is that we produce kombucha following the traditional fermentation methods and recipe.” Kombucha has trace amounts of naturally occurring alcohol in it due to the nature of fermentation. In the U.S. the legal limit for alcohol in drinks is 0.5% and “in 2010 there was a ‘crackdown’ on kombuchas being sold that were over the legal limit, causing many small brewers to be pulled from the market,” says Matt. Many breweries found a way around it, though. If they were to modify their recipes or their techniques, their kombuchas would meet the legal limit to be sold as non-alcoholic. But that didn’t line up with Matt’s vision.

“We made the choice to become fully licensed as a brewery so that we could sell kombucha in its natural state, using more raw ingredients, and not have to modify it in any way. This presents challenges because it limits where our product can be sold, and subjects us to more regulations,” says Matt. But it’s all worth it. By adhering to this philosophy, KrafTea Kombucha stands out because it “maintains the maximum number of probiotics and other healthful products of fermentation,” says Matt.

A lot went into the company name and product design. “For the name, I am a big fan of puns and wordplay, and I absolutely wanted to incorporate those into the company name, says Matt. He labored over the bottles too. “I chose the Boston round bottle because it has a historic relation to scientific and medicinal uses.” The font is American Typewriter because “it’s timeless and clean and lets the bottles be the star of the show,” says Matt. Our product is completely handcrafted and we wanted the look to convey that as much as possible,” says Matt. The tagline, “Worcester’s Local Culture,” has a story behind it too. It embodies everything about the brand. “It’s made in Worcester. It’s local. It’s culture. It also makes me laugh,” says Matt.

During the dog days of summer, refreshing kombucha flavors—such as minty mojito and blueberry lemon—flew off the shelves. “We plan to keep [minty mojito] available as long as people are buying it,” says Matt. Which is great for those who like to imbibe; it tastes amazing with a dash of rum in it.

The blueberry lemon makes a delicious vinaigrette when whisked together with extra-virgin olive oil, honey and a pinch of salt and pepper. Matt suggests thinking outside the box when making marinades or sauces and adding some of the deeper berry-flavored kombuchas to barbecue repertoires.

Because of kombucha’s versatility, this is the tip of the proverbial iceberg. “Ginger lime is an ideal base for classic cocktails like the Mule and Dark n’ Stormy. Our cranberry is flavored with 100% unsweetened cranberry juice and can be substituted for cranberry in any drink like a Cape Codder or Cosmopolitan. Many flavors blend well with sparkling wine in mimosas, but particularly the elderberry honey and apricot mango,” says Matt. As a nod to KrafTea Kombucha’s quality, “several local bars have created cocktail recipes using our kombucha. We partnered with The Muse Bar and Kitchen to develop a menu of original kombucha cocktails featuring KrafTea,” says Matt.

KrafTea Kombucha pairs perfectly with food too. “Ginger lime with sushi. This is 100% the best beverage to eat with sushi. The flavors are a perfect complement. Cranberry makes a fantastic beverage with Thanksgiving dinner. Vanilla honeybush works well with dessert foods, and is spectacular as a float made with coconut gelato. Elderberry honey works with any food that would typically pair with wine, like a nice steak and Brussels sprouts. Or a cheese platter. The orange carrot makes a great breakfast beverage,” says Matt. There are endless possibilities.

As days shorten and temperatures dip, frayed sweaters are taken out of hibernation and Matt begins production of his fall kombuchas. Because fermentation takes about three weeks, SCOBYs go into vats before customers even realize they are craving the next season’s new flavor. “Every fall we make an apple cinnamon using fresh cider from Clearview Farm in Sterling and then when winter comes we do warming flavors like chai spiced pear and chili lime,” says Matt.

Kombucha connoisseurs and the kombucha curious come in all shapes and sizes. “Our clientele ranges from health conscious people of all ages, to fans of fermentation, to people who are looking for an alternative to intoxicating beverages, to the cocktail crowd who is looking for new and interesting flavors,” says Matt.

Anyone venturing to Worcester’s only fully licensed kombucha brewery will first walk down a long hallway replete with framed black-and-white images of the ghosts of hardworking factory workers and the massive machines they labored over. Exposed brick walls, massive wooden beams and dappled sunlight dances through steel-frame factory windows. The real showstoppers are the gleaming 200 gallon, stainless steel vessels where the magic happens.

Matt, a self-professed “SCOBY wrangler,” is friendly, soft spoken and eager to talk kombucha. While his favorite band, Phish, plays in the background, he fills bottles, sanitizes empties or ties tags on each reusable glass bottle.

“I think the factory workers from years past would be pleased to know that the space is still being used to produce things by hand and that modern technology hasn’t completely taken over. I also think they would be happy to see that I am working for myself,” says Matt.

The space is casual. Wooden pallets and strands of white lights divide the fermenters from the lounge area where friends can have a few good laughs. When the temperatures drop, layer up. The brewery has heaters, but it stays pretty chilly. Don’t worry, though: the fermenting kombucha will make it nice and cozy. Check out their website to see where KrafTea Kombucha is sold. “We are carried in a variety of locations, from coffee shops to specialty food stores, to cocktail bars,” says Matt. The brewery is open on Saturdays, from noon to 3pm.

krafteakombucha.com