Photos and styling by Bèatrice Peltre

I owe my food philosophy—caring deeply about the food we cook and eat—to my parents. At home, my mother’s nickname was “La reine des restes” (the Queen of Leftovers) because she could whip up a meal with anything saved from a previous meal, especially as a salade composée (composed salad).

As for my dad, he made sure nothing would ever go to waste either. If any of us attempted to toss leftovers, he reminded us proudly that “Chez nous, on ne jette pas de la nourriture” (at home, we don’t waste food).

Consequently, our fridge happily showcased a collection of various- sized containers filled with bits and pieces of former meals. And since the apple doesn't fall far from the tree, I have learned to save food and compose new dishes with leftovers in the same way.

According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, an estimated 30% to 40% of the food supply in this country goes to waste. This is staggering. But I believe there are things we can do at home to make a difference and reduce that big number, don’t you?

For me, it starts with a little planning in the kitchen—simple things like not buying more fresh produce than we need, so that food has a better chance at being eaten before it goes bad. Keeping this in mind when I do my shopping, I use my imagination to extend the life of a vegetable by using it in multiple dishes I will cook the same week.

For example, when I buy a whole butternut squash, I know that I may put three quarters of it in a soup and finish the rest by making vegetable latkes or by simply grating and stir-frying it as an accompaniment to a grain or risotto. A large cauliflower head can be divided: One day it’s a gratin, the next it’s a tabbouleh. Half of a big, round celeriac can be shaved thin and layered with potatoes in a gratin Dauphinois, the other half grated with carrots as a hearty salad.

Keeping my fridge well organized helps, too. I find it particularly useful to store leftovers in glass jars or reusable pouches so that the food is visible and I know what I have on hand to cook with. Often I purposely prepare dinner thinking of what I can make with the leftovers the following day. If I buy fish for dinner, I’ll make sure to buy and cook a large enough piece so there’s extra on hand for another meal or to add to the children’s lunches. Even today I used leftover grilled char and sticky rice to prepare colorful Onigirazu (sushi sandwiches) for Lulu and Rémy’s lunchboxes! And I have saved the rest of this fish to add to a dish of pasta with sautéed greens tonight.

For fresh produce that is beginning to wilt and is not as pretty as it was when I bought it, I’ll find ways to add it to a stock or soup—like the often-forgotten greens of a leek—or I use it in a dish where texture doesn’t matter. A bunch of softening carrots still taste delicious when puréed or mashed.

Have you ever tasted oven-roasted strawberries served with fresh yogurt and a drizzle of lemon juice and honey? Besides stewing tired fruit, this method is one I keep up my sleeve for berries that are beginning to look sad.

If you have the space outdoors, composting is a bonus too. There are even services that will pick up food scraps to compost in large anaerobic digesters and give you back the soil for your garden.

During the summer, I maintain an area in my garden where I grow fresh herbs (but a few patio planters work just as well) and I cut only what I need—herbs freshly cut from the garden will always look prettier than any you can buy, and that matters too. Right before the first frost, I make an extra effort to cut my herbs and store them, finely chopped, in bags in the freezer, ready to be used during the winter.

These are all small and easy changes that can make a difference when added up. It makes me happy that nothing goes to waste in my kitchen. But there are always ways to improve. Personally, my next goal is to start canning some just-harvested foods to enjoy during the colder months, just the way my mother and grandmothers used to. I know it would make them all proud and smile. As farmers, they knew what made sense, that food is a luxury we should not waste.

This story appeared in the Winter 2020 issue.