Photo by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

This take on traditional Roman carbonara is lightened up for the season using sweet peas and spring onions in place of cured pork. Short twisted pasta cuts are the best choice for this sauce, catching the peas in their tunnels and curves, but you can use whatever pasta you have in your pantry. We used Russo’s fresh extruded semolina casarecci—seek them out in Watertown for a real treat. Use the best quality local eggs you can find, and if your shelling peas are starchy, there’s no harm in using frozen; the fresh taste of the slivered snow peas will take center stage.

Serves 4

1 pound fresh English peas, shelled (or 1 cup defrosted frozen peas)
1 small onion, thinly sliced
extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 whole egg and 3 egg yolks, room temperature
¼ cup heavy cream
1 cup grated Pecorino Romano
½ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano, plus more for serving
1 pound pasta (short twists are good here, like casarecci, toscani or fusilli)
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1 bunch spring onions, thinly sliced
4 ounces snow peas, strings removed and julienned/slivered lengthwise

In a large skillet combine the onion, thyme and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Bring to a sizzle, season with salt and pepper then reduce the heat to low and slowly caramelize until softened and deeply golden brown, about 20 minutes.

In a serving bowl whisk together the eggs and cream until fully blended, then stir in the 2 cheeses. Add ½ teaspoon each salt and freshly ground black pepper. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add 2 big handfuls of salt—you want the water to taste like the sea.

When the onions are caramelized and golden, add the pasta to the boiling water and stir; bring back to the boil and cook according to the instructions on the box.

While the pasta cooks, raise the heat under the caramelized onions and add the butter to the skillet. Stir in the sliced garlic and spring onions; sauté, stirring constantly, until fragrant and beginning to brown slightly. Add the slivered snow peas and shelled (or defrosted) peas and season with salt and pepper; sauté until just bright green, no more than 3–4 minutes. Remove from the heat. Set aside.

As soon as the pasta is al dente, reserve 1 cup cooking water in a measuring cup and drain the rest. Whisking constantly, dribble in half the cooking water into the egg-cheese mixture, then add the drained pasta and toss to combine. Add the peas and onions to the bowl along with another ¼ cup pasta water and continue to toss until the pasta and peas are fully coated and the sauce is very creamy. Add more cracked black pepper to taste, then serve immediately with extra Parmigiano grated over the top of each bowl.

This recipe appeared in the Spring 2020 issue as part of a larger story on Peas.