Photos by Luke Pyenson

Like so many other things this summer, a trip to the ice cream shop—one of the staples of the season—won’t be the carefree treat it once was. But that doesn’t mean we have to do without. After months of nursing sourdough starter and growing scallions on our windowsills, it’s time to flex some new muscles. Making ice cream, and variations on the theme, is easier and more satisfying than you might imagine.

SALTED CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM

With the combination of cocoa powder and bittersweet chocolate, this ice cream has a deep chocolate flavor, which is offset by the bite of sea salt. If you have time to wait (and can plan in advance), let the custard refrigerate overnight. This improves the ice cream’s consistency dramatically.

Makes 1 quart

1½ cups milk
1½ cups cream
3 large egg yolks
¾ cup sugar
4 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
4 ounces bittersweet (70%) chocolate, chopped
1½ teaspoons flaky sea salt

In a medium saucepan, mix the milk and 1 cup of the cream. Cook over medium heat until small bubbles form around the sides of the pan, about 5 minutes. Do not let the mixture boil. Remove from heat.

While the cream and milk are heating, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar, cocoa powder and remaining ½ cup cream in a large bowl until smooth. Gradually pour about ½ cup of the heated milk and cream into the cocoa mixture, whisking constantly until completely blended. Pour the cocoa mixture into the saucepan. Cook on medium heat, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon (you should be able to draw a line down the spoon with your finger), about 4–6 minutes.

Place the chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl and pour the custard over it, stirring until the chocolate melts. Strain the custard through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Place the bowl in an ice bath and stir the custard occasionally until it is cool. Cover and refrigerate for at least 3 hours, or overnight.

Transfer the custard to an ice cream machine and freeze according to manufacturer’s instructions. About a minute before the ice cream is through spinning (depending on your machine, it should take about 20 minutes), add the sea salt and let it mix in completely. With a rubber spatula, transfer ice cream to a container and freeze for at least 2–3 hours before serving.

SALTED CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM PIE WITH CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE CRUST

Ice cream pies are endlessly versatile, easy to make and really fun warm-weather desserts. They can be as festive or casual as the occasion demands. This recipe calls for the ice cream recipe above but so many flavors would work—vanilla, coffee, mocha chip, coconut, to name a few. And you can change the cookie crust. So really this is a guide. Think oatmeal cookie with ginger ice cream. Or chocolate wafer cookies with chocolate chip. Just for starters.

Serves 8

chocolate chip cookie crust (recipe follows)
1 quart Salted Chocolate Ice Cream, slightly softened (recipe above)
handful of chopped pistachios for garnish (optional)
unsweetened whipped cream (optional)

For the crust:
7 ounces chocolate chip cookie crumbs*
3 tablespoons butter, melted

*I used 1 whole package Tate’s chocolate chip cookies, 14 cookies. Whatever brand you use, make sure they are very crispy (or use your own).

In a bowl mix the cookie crumbs and melted butter until all of the crumbs are moistened. Press the moistened cookie crumbs into the bottom and sides of a 9-inch glass pie plate.

With a rubber spatula transfer the ice cream into the cookie crust, spreading as you go. You may want to use an offset spatula to smooth the top. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze for at least 4 hours.

Remove pie from freezer about 10 minutes before serving. Garnish with nuts and whipped cream if using. Slice with a knife dipped in warm water.

This story appeared in the Summer 2020 issue.