Photo by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

Nothing says New England summer like a clambake bash on the beach. But as plans have changed and big gatherings are postponed in favor of smaller group dinners, you can mimic the flavors of a seaside clambake at home on your charcoal grill with a foil roasting pan and some seaweed for an extra boost of umami flavor. None of these ingredients is particularly novel—a clambake is a clambake, after all, almost always composed of shellfish, potatoes, spicy sausage and sweet corn; this one skips the lobster in favor of two types of clams but otherwise sticks to the classic combination. Pour out the smoky supper onto a paper-lined picnic table and dig in family-style with your nearest and dearest. Serve with herbed butter for dipping, an ice-cold Narragansett Fresh Catch blonde ale and plenty of wet-naps for cleanup.

Serves 4

3 ears sweet corn, shucked and cut into coins (about 6 pieces each), reserving husks
1 tablespoon wakame (dried seaweed), reconstituted in boiling water and drained OR a handful of fresh seaweed from your fishmonger
1 pound tiny new potatoes, red or gold, parboiled
1 dozen littlenecks or mahogany clams, scrubbed
2 dozen soft-shelled clams, scrubbed
1 bag Maine mussels, scrubbed and de-bearded
1 red onion, quartered and separated into petals
1 locally made spicy smoked sausage, like chorizo from Daniele, split lengthwise and cut into 2-inch pieces small bunch fresh thyme, chopped
6 big sprigs flat-leaf Italian parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon Old Bay Seasoning
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon dried mustard
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 sticks unsalted butter, divided
1 can Narragansett Fresh Catch blonde ale
handful of wood chips, soaked, for extra flavor
1 clove garlic, grated
½ cup basil leaves, finely chopped
2 sprigs tarragon, minced
10 chives, minced
kosher salt, to taste
2 lemons, cut into wedges

Special equipment: 2 foil roasting trays and a roll of aluminum foil

Using the tips of a pair of scissors, poke small holes in the bottom and sides of 1 roasting tray to allow smoke inside, about 6 holes on the bottom and 2 on each side. Place the punctured foil tray inside the other one on a sheet pan and line the inside with reserved corn husks (discard silk) and scatter the reconstituted wakame or fresh ocean seaweed over the top.

Arrange the clambake as follows: Over the top of the corn husks and seaweed, add the corn, parboiled potatoes, onion, both clams, mussels, sausage and most of the herbs (reserve some thyme and parsley for the dipping butter). Stir together the spices and pepper and sprinkle half over the top. Slice 1 stick of butter into 12 pieces and tuck in and around the seafood and pour in half the beer (being careful that not too much leaks out the bottom; this is what the corn husks and second tray are for); drink the rest of the beer. Cover pan tightly with 2 pieces of foil that meet in the middle so there can be an easy opening at the top for peeking.

Light a charcoal grill and allow the coals to cool to medium-high heat. Spread the hot coals into an even layer. Lift the punctured foil tray out of its mate and place on the grill grate as close to the coals as possible; keep the intact foil tray handy to help transport the drippy clambake to the table when it’s finished cooking. Toss the soaked wood chips into the coals and close the grill. Cook 30–40 minutes before checking that the shells have opened; this could take as long as an hour depending on the heat of your fire.

While the seafood cooks, melt the remaining stick of butter and add the garlic, herbs (including reserved parsley and thyme), remaining spice mixture and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Transfer to small dipping bowls and line an outdoor table with a thick layer of newspaper or brown paper bags.

When all the clams and mussels have opened, pour clambake out onto the lined table set with seafood forks, lemon wedges, herbed butter in bowls and plenty of napkins and beer.

This recipe appeared in the Summer 2020 issue as part of a larger story on Seafood and Corn on the Grill.