Photos by Linda Campos

The best chefs know that complex times call for simple food. And Chef Jordan Mackey had never experienced a more complex time than last spring when the pandemic threatened the survival of 29 Rustic, his event-focused restaurant in Sudbury. A veteran of the fine-dining industry, Mackey knew his clients’ needs were changing for the long term. Time had come, he said, “for chefs to find a new way to bond with their customers.”

Mackey and his wife, Reanna (Nan), decided to act fast and commit to a unique concept they had been considering for years—a roadside fried chicken joint and retail market featuring farm-fresh ingredients and health-conscious takes on classic fixings.

In Stow, only seven miles around the Assabet River National Wildlife Refuge from Sudbury, the Mackeys found the ideal site to bring their vision to life: a historic barn on 2½ acres of farmland. Stow, known for its apple orchards, golf courses and aviation history, has welcomed the Mackeys with true New England enthusiasm.

“Stow has been amazing,” Mackey said. “We’re already at our pre-COVID revenue. We’re so busy we’ve been slow to launch some of the initiatives we have on the table.” These initiatives, including educational programming around farming and raising chickens, yoga on the lawn, selling seed packets and a sustainability-focused virtual fish market, are part of the community-building ethos core to the Mackeys’ vision. Chef Mackey says he looks forward to these opportunities for safe gathering and community building when the weather and pandemic protocols allow this spring.

Locals are not the only ones flocking to Nan’s. The Mackeys’ team has been excited to welcome customers from as far as Cambridge for their authentic made-from-scratch meals.

With the help of government PPP loans, Mackey retained as much of his 29 Rustic staff as possible. Due to COVID closings he says, he was also “able to grab some fallen angels.” His barista, for example, is a sommelier who is helping to design an innovative wine and beer concept that will launch in the spring.

Nan’s offers a rotating seasonal menu of grab-and-go meals seven days a week. All fresh, all made from scratch. While fried chicken makes the headlines, the menu includes a wide variety of options.

In addition to ethically sourced coffee, they sell probiotic tea tonics in exotic flavors like black tea & mango and blood orange & hibiscus. Breakfast highlights include immune-boosting smoothies with ingredients like coconut milk, kale, beet powder and turmeric; chia pudding and acai bowls. For lunch there are grain bowls, sandwiches and wraps (including the famous Fried Chicken Sammie). Dinner includes vegetable sides like cauliflower tabbouleh, pesto grilled broccoli and spiced cucumbers; salads; salmon and flank steak entrees and, of course, antibiotic-free, semolina-crusted fried chicken.

Even in a slowdown, the restaurant industry requires owners to act fast. By placing a focus on the local community, farm-fresh ingredients and conscientious convenience, the Mackeys and their team have done what many have found impossible—built a thriving business during the pandemic. Once you visit Stow and experience Nan’s roadside flavor, you’ll understand why.

nansmarket.com

This story appeared in the Spring 2021 issue.