Photo by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

Cato Alexander is the father of mixology. Born enslaved, he purchased his freedom bartending. Alexander’s bar, Cato’s, was the place to be in 19th-century New York City. Having coined the term “cocktail,” Cato was famous for many drinks and delicacies, most notably his homemade eggnog. I love to explore the original version of Cato’s cocktail, imagining what it might be like to build a legacy in a glass.

Makes 1 cocktail

1½ ounces cognac
1 ounce heavy cream
¾ ounces banana oleo saccharum (see instructions)
½ ounce Lucano amaro
½ ounce potato syrup (see instructions)
2–3 thin slices of butter
1 whole egg
⅛ teaspoon of dehydrated lemon sugar or large lemon peel with little pith
smoked cinnamon stick or freshly grated nutmeg to garnish

Build all ingredients except cognac, amaro and butter in a shaker. Shake well without ice. Pour mixture into a mug or pot and add butter. Heat on low until warm, or microwave, about 30 seconds. Add cognac and amaro. Serve in a toddy glass or mug. Garnish with cinnamon stick or shaved nutmeg.

FOR BANANA OLEO SACCHARUM (MAKES ABOUT 6 OUNCES):
Peel and dice 2 banana peels. Weigh peels and add equal parts cane sugar. Let mixture sit overnight or until sugar is completely dissolved. Strain out liquid into a jar and store.

FOR “POTATO” SYRUP:
Yam is a powerful staple in the West African diet. Pounded yam is a type of “swallow”—starch that is cooked and formed into balls, served along with a soup or stew and meant to be swallowed without chewing. Yams can be difficult to find in Massachusetts, often confused with sweet potatoes. (The “candied yams” traditionally served at Thanksgiving are almost certainly sweet potatoes—and in some families, especially Black families, the question of who gets the honor of preparing them is a serious decision.) For this recipe, I tried several types of tubers, settling for the mild tropical sweetness of roasted batata.

Clean and roast batata at 350°F for one hour. Let cool before peeling. Weigh peeled batata and blend with equal parts sugar of choice, hot water and pinch of salt. Strain to desired consistency: Thinner syrup will make a smoother drink and thicker syrup will make a richer, creamier drink. Store for up to 1 week.

This recipe appeared in the Fall 2021 issue as part of a larger story, Home and Away: Cocktails for Fall.