Photo by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

When you see the word “Grenobloise” (literally, of Grenoble) in classic French cuisine, it refers to the combination of browned butter, lemon, capers and parsley, typically used to season mild fish like sole. Here, the tangy, briny seasoning dresses up equally mild skate wings that are pan-fried and paired with roasted cauliflower. Cooking time will depend on the thickness of your skate—if your filets are more than ½ inch thick, they will need an extra few minutes in the oven. The flesh is cooked when it just begins to flake apart.

Serves 4

1 medium head cauliflower, cut into florets
3 tablespoons olive oil
salt and pepper, to taste
½ cup semolina flour
4 small skate wings, 6–8 ounces each
1⁄3 cup plus 2 tablespoons neutral oil such as canola
8 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons capers
1 small lemon
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley

Preheat the oven to 500°F. Toss the cauliflower with olive oil, spread the florets onto a rimmed sheet pan and roast for about 10–12 minutes, or until the vegetables have softened and have turned deep golden brown in parts. Season with salt and pepper and set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F.

Place the semolina flour in a shallow bowl or rimmed plate. Season the skate on both sides with salt and pepper and dredge through the flour, shaking off any excess.

Heat a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat and add 1⁄3 cup neutral oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, carefully add two dredged skate wings. Cook the fish for about 2–3 minutes per side, or until golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack set over a rimmed sheet pan. Repeat with the other two wings, adding a tablespoon or two more of oil to the pan if necessary. Place the fish in the 350°F oven for 5 minutes.

With a sharp paring knife, slice both ends of the lemon and set them aside. Place the lemon cut-side down on a cutting board. Moving your knife along the contour of the fruit, slice away all the peel and white pith. Holding the peeled lemon in one hand, insert your knife in between the membranes of each section, carving out segments of fleshy pulp. Chop the segments into small pieces. Squeeze the juice from the membranes and lemon ends into a small bowl and reserve.

Wipe the skillet out with a paper towel. Add the butter and cook over medium-high heat until melted and foamy. Continue to cook, watching carefully and swirling the pan, until the butter turns golden brown and develops a nutty aroma. Turn off the heat and add the capers, lemon pieces, 2 teaspoons of the reserved lemon juice and parsley. Add the cauliflower and toss until it is well coated in the browned butter. Serve each skate filet with some of the cauliflower mixture spooned over the side and extra chopped parsley, if you like.

Adapted from chef and food systems activist Michael Leviton.

This recipe appeared in the Winter 2023 issue as part of a larger story on Undervalued Local Seafood.