Photos by Jesika Theos

For a North Shore day trip in the fall, it’s only fitting to feature one of the most popular autumnal destinations in the country: Salem. Each October the “Witch City” hosts a monthlong festival—now in its 40th year—full of ghoulish Witch Trials tours, haunted houses, live music, psychic readings and fun for the whole family. But the city is also home to a wide range of food and drink destinations, enjoyable at any time of year, with many of our favorites located within walking distance from the train station and all the “Haunted Happenings” spread across the city. Hop on the train from North Station, and after a few stops you’ll disembark just a short walk from the fun and festivities of the Halloween capital of the world.

Arrive in the morning so you can enjoy breakfast, coffee and baked goods at A&J King Artisan Bakers (48 Central Street). After training at the Standard Baking Co. in Portland, Maine, husband-and-wife duo Andy and Jackie King opened their state-of-the-art bakery business featuring high-quality ingredients, many sourced from local farms. Grab a croissant, pain au chocolat or a classic bacon, egg and cheddar cheese sandwich served on a toasted brioche bun as you begin your stroll around the city. If you have room in your tote, pick up a seasonal galette or Anadama pan loaf to bring home.

Tea enthusiasts should head to Jolie Tea Company (316 Derby Street), a whimsically sophisticated spot adorned with a floral wallpaper entryway, an array of tiny tea bites and an impressive tea selection. Reserve ahead and take part in high tea, which begins with a glass of iced tisane. Enjoy a three-tiered presentation of tea sandwiches, including cucumber, smoked salmon and ham with brie, followed by lemon scones, French macarons, madeleines and your selected personal pot of tea. One of the most popular JTC house blends is the Antoinette: a black tea blend with vanilla, rose and lavender. The obvious fall-Halloween choice is JTC’s house blend, Witch’s Brew—a black tea blend with orange, ginger, cinnamon and elderberry.

Coffee fans can visit Odd Meter Coffee Co. (60 Washington Street), a newer café with a funky, vibrant atmosphere and a changing specials menu. The ethos is community, sustainability and inclusivity. For a jolt, order the Red Eye (hot brewed coffee of the day topped with a double shot of espresso) or the Cocamocha (tropical coconut, chocolate and a double shot of espresso swirled into a hot latte). The groovy mural is sure to add some pep to your step.

After checking out some haunted happenings, stroll over to the waterfront. Overlooking Salem harbor, Sea Level Oyster Bar (94 Wharf Street) offers an eclectic seafood-focused menu in a laid-back atmosphere. Weather permitting, grab a table on the upstairs deck and order a dozen fresh oysters shucked to order with housemade roasted red pepper cocktail sauce. Next up, the Fisherman’s Platter: fried clams, cod, shrimp and scallops, served with french fries, onion strings and coleslaw. Or enjoy your fresh seafood grilled with a selection of housemade sauces and rubs.

For pizza lovers, Bambolina (“baby doll” in Italian; 288 Derby Street) is one of the best spots in Salem and beyond. This truly authentic Italian spot slings handcrafted artisan pizzas and shared plates using only the freshest, top-quality ingredients. The pizzas are crafted Neapolitan-style using 00 flour, San Marzano–style tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and a 925°F wood-burning oven imported from Italy. If you’re a traditionalist, order the Margherita Classico: crushed tomato, fresh mozzarella, fresh basil, Pecorino Romano and extra virgin olive oil. But for something more daring, order the Prosciutto and Blue: roasted garlic, Alfredo sauce, fresh mozzarella, prosciutto, gorgonzola dolce, caramelized pearl onions and local honey.

A few minutes’ walk away is Howling Wolf Taqueria (76 Lafayette Street). The casual restaurant has a scratch kitchen using fresh ingredients with authentic and new spins on Mexican classics from specialty tacos, to burritos, quesadillas, enchiladas and more. Order a bunch of “Wolf Bites” to share and the chicharrones and plantains served with salsa, or some bacon-wrapped jalapeños.

When it’s time for a sweet afternoon treat, transport yourself to Paris at Caramel French Patisserie (281 Essex Street). You’ll be surrounded by a gorgeous display of the chef’s artfully crafted creations including their most popular items, macarons. Order a box of the seasonal pumpkin flavor with a pop of orange, sprinkled with black dust.

For a rooftop cocktail, head to Hotel Salem, a Lark hotel in the heart of Salem (209 Essex Street). The Roof at Hotel Salem’s motto is “strong drink, simple food.” The seasonal, open-air rooftop bar and restaurant features an outdoor kitchen with vast views of the city and harbor. Try the house sangria made with rosé wine, watermelon, lychee, fresh fruit and juices and an order of the Mexican street corn dip: roasted corn, poblano peppers, cilantro and cotija cheese, served with tortilla chips.

A well-known spot for a cold craft beer is Notch Brewing, a scenic biergarten tucked down a side street overlooking the water (283R Derby Street). The unique beer offerings focus on traditional Czech and German lagers along with an eclectic European-inspired menu with dishes like hot German soft pretzels or the giardiniera-style blend of pickled cauliflower, red pepper, cucumber, celery and carrots from Salem’s own Maitland Mountain Farm. Not only is this a family friendly brewery, it’s dog friendly, too, so get ready to toast a furry friend.

With apples in prime season, Far From the Tree Cider offers an array of housemade ciders in their tasting room (108 Jackson Street). The team led by husband-and-wife duo Al and Denise Snape has experimented with dozens of kinds of ciders—delightfully refreshing, dry, not overly sweet, with a bit of carbonation. Follow their social media accounts for daily food truck vendors, pop-ups and their entertainment calendar.

Inside Deacon Giles Distillery you’ll find the Speakeasy Lab, featuring a constantly rotating drink menu based on seasonal ingredients (75 Canal Street). Since they only serve the spirits they produce on site, almost everything is housemade—including infusions, mixers like triple sec and vermouth and even some of the bitters. They serve classic cocktails with a spin, like a housemade Negroni or the Deacon Stormy, though the emphasis here is on the creative concoctions they make in the Lab. Some rotating options include the Raising Arizona, with green tea vodka, honey, corn syrup and ginseng; or the Peanut Butter Jelly Time: peanut butter spiced rum, strawberry, house triple sec, lime and MSG brine. The Lab also sells bottled and canned cocktails, so bring a cooler to take some home.

As afternoon turns to evening, head down to Settler (2 Lynde Street), an intimate New American restaurant with a French twist. Order a glass of wine from the carefully curated list and start with Settler Meze for Two, a selection of “for the table” small bites, and try the Maine Blue Hill Bay mussels with vadouvan, coconut milk, crème fraiche, Chablis and sourdough; or the Berkshire pork country pâté. For entrees, the selection ranges from handmade ricotta gnocchi with maitake mushroom, Jerusalem artichoke and Pecorino Romano to the local dayboat scallops with fregola sarda, fava beans, fennel, olive and sauce vierge.

Another charming dinner option is Ledger, located in the former Salem Savings Bank building (circa 1818, at 125 Washington Street). The open, convivial interior features an innovative New England–centric menu. For some small bites, order the apricot toast with whipped goat cheese and prosciutto, or the spicy pork belly with stone fruit and miso vinaigrette.

If you feel so inclined before heading back on the train, hop over to Seagrass Salem Dispensary for some legal, adult-use cannabis products (3 Dodge Street). You’ll approach a striking under-the-sea mural before entering the distinctly aromatic, welcoming space selling an array of flowers, pre-rolls, vaporizers, edibles and more. The community-focused business is dedicated to sustainability and the relationship of land and sea. Salem in the fall is so much more than just witches and goblins.

Take some time to explore the city on foot and enjoy this historical maritime seaport’s modern style and sensibility.

This story appeared in the Fall 2022 issue.