Photos by Linda Campos

For this summer’s North Shore getaway, we are heading to Massachusetts’ northeast corner and downtown Newburyport. Visitors from the Commonwealth and beyond are attracted to this charming, historical city’s cobblestone streets, brick sidewalks, Federal-style architecture, old mercantile buildings and expansive parks overlooking the Merrimack River. The seaside destination is known for its eclectic mix of boutiques, galleries, museums, cafés and restaurants in the city center. Nearby are vast beaches, marshes and farms for those seeking an escape into nature as well.

[Before heading north, make sure to pack a cooler to carry home some North Shore specialties; from fresh seafood and local cheeses to baked goods and beer, our itinerary includes several shops worth visiting.]

On your way to downtown Newburyport from the south, stop in at COLBY FARM in Newbury. The expansive farm on 200 acres grows all kinds of local produce. At the height of the season, pick up juicy berries, sweet corn, cut flowers or whatever else they’ve harvested that day. The onsite farm store also sells a variety of local products. If you visit towards the end of summer, the farm is overflowing with sunflowers—quite the photo opportunity.

As you arrive in town, pull up to OLIVE’S COFFEE AND BAKEHOUSE, a quaint red-door colonial with an adorable bulldog sign. The warm, welcoming interior and smiling staff offer an array of baked goods, coffees and seasonal lattes with homemade syrups, like the popular brown sugar cinnamon. Order a sampling of scones, teacakes and brown butter chocolate chip cookies. It’s also worth trying any of the delicious gluten-free and vegan-friendly options.

Hop back in the car and head towards State Street and PADDLE INN’s inviting multi-hued umbrellas. This eclectic neighborhood spot serves Sunday brunch with a twist on classic comfort foods and drinks with a seaside influence. The funky, mid-century modern interior is full of surfboard racks and a turntable with record collection to match the morning’s mood—a real beachy vibe. Try the Shanghai Eggs, a house-made sesame English muffin with over-easy eggs, watercress, shiitakes, red pepper, snow peas and miso chili hollandaise with a side of potato hash; or the Shrimp and Grits, topped with a sunny-side egg, greens and sweet and spicy sauce. It’s only fitting to share a side of Mai Tai popcorn to match the vibrant scene.

A short walk away is the TANNERY MARKETPLACE, an arrangement of historic mill buildings packed with small-business shopping and dining options. If you’re in town on a Sunday, be sure to visit the NEWBURYPORT FARMERS MARKET (9am–1pm, May–November). Now in its 16th season, the outdoor market showcases many local vendors selling fresh produce grown nearby, along with artisan goods, live music, an annual tomato contest and the occasional special guests: Butterscotch and Caramel, a pair of friendly alpacas from Everything Alpaca in Brookline, New Hampshire.

Take a break from the summer heat and head inside Mill No. 4 to CHOCOCOA BAKING COMPANY. The lively espresso bar sells an array of baked goods and specializes in the award-winning Whoopie, a take on the classic whoopie pie. Chococoa’s famous Whoopies are pillowy, bite-sized cookies filled with buttercream frosting made with the freshest ingredients. Order a selection of Whoopies to go—be sure to include seasonal options, like a double-stuffed key lime and coconut, or mango with passion fruit buttercream, along with the classic chocolate and vanilla cream.

If you’re in the market for a gift, the charming AFFAMATA is a prime destination for those who love to cook, eat and entertain. A mother-daughter duo of owners hand-select premium local and global products for the home. Items range from a curated collection of 65+ specialty olive oils and balsamic vinegars (available to sample), to Simon Pearce glassware, Loveline baskets, crisp linens and place settings as well as kid-friendly cutlery and gadgets, knives and locally made and imported specialty foods.

If your cooler isn’t overflowing already, pop into NEWBURYPORT FISH MARKET across the street to stock up on the daily catch, where most products arrive right off the boat at Boston’s Fish Pier. In addition to a huge selection of fresh fish and shellfish, the shop also makes poke bowls to go with an assortment of toppings. At the end of September, the market hosts Oysterfest In The Port, an annual event bringing together oysters, fresh fish, local craft brews, wines, live music and more, a great reason to come back in the fall.

Next, head over to JOPPA FINE FOODS, your one-stop-shop to make your own picnic—ideal for the beach, boat or to enjoy on a blanket at the park. This inviting gourmet market and café sells a range of goodies including a huge selection of natural wines, refrigerators full of premade salads and entrées, a cheese and charcuterie showcase, chips and snacks and a delicious made-toorder menu for breakfast and lunch. Chat with one of the friendly team members for inspiration as you assemble your tote.

If you’d prefer to dine in, head next door to THE JOY NEST, a cozy, loungey restaurant with an Art Deco–1920s glamor and a menu of Thai-inspired small plates and Asian fusion dishes. Take a seat on one of the jewel-toned velvet sofas with plush pillows and order from the “Gin Gigglewater” menu of gin and bubbles featuring ingredients like elderflower, blood orange, lime or ginger. Order a selection of street-food inspired bites to go with your drinks, like the house-made lobster rangoon, pork and mango fresh spring rolls, bao buns, rice bowls, or any of the many noodle dishes.

Next, take a walk through WATERFRONT PARK, a picturesque greenspace and boardwalk where the Merrimack River meets the Atlantic. Take a seat on one of the benches scattered throughout the park and watch boats come in and out of the busy harbor; there’s always some kind of live music or entertainment here on summer weekends.

If settling in to a platter of raw local seafood is what you’re after, a top destination is Chef Nancy Batista- Caswell’s BRINE, a short walk up State Street from the park. Grab a seat at the bar by the octopus mural and order an ice cold glass of rosé; a dozen local oysters; a daily smorgasbord of crudo, ceviche and caviar; or splurge on the Power Tower, which includes oysters, clams, poached shrimp and crudo. Round out the meal with something meaty from the grill.

When it’s time for something sweet, head to HARBOR CREAMERY just off of State Street, an ice cream parlor known for its innovative, small-batch flavors, with many rotating weekly based on the season. Order a cone of Blueburyport (blueberry ice cream overflowing with bits of vanilla wafers), Riptide (pure vanilla ice cream with fudge and caramel swirls), or Ashland Street (chocolate ice cream with chocolate chips and marshmallow), or if you’re really daring, a Donini (a Changing Tides Café donut warm-pressed with your choice of ice cream).

Newburyport is especially appealing for beer fans. A bit outside of downtown proper you’ll find NEWBURYPORT BREWING COMPANY with a diverse lineup of beers, rotating seasonal pours and hard seltzers. While sipping a Green Head IPA, you can enjoy live music Wednesday through Sunday, or play a game of bocce, stand up shuffleboard or cornhole. Various local food trucks park outside the beer garden, and inside you’ll find two brand new pickleball courts. Choose your favorite brew and grab some cans to take home.

Down the street is RIVERWALK BREWING AND TAPROOM, yet another family- and dog-friendly brewery with a beer garden filled with picnic tables, games and fire pits. In addition to an extensive beer list, Riverwalk has a full lunch and dinner menu. Enjoy a pour with some homemade pretzels, wings or creative pizzas before grabbing a few four-packs or growlers to go.

And finally, any trip to Newburyport should include a visit to Plum Island, the pristine barrier island accessible via a two-mile causeway, named for the beach plum shrubs that grow in the dunes. If you time it right, you can make it to open-air SUNSET CLUB, Paddle Inn’s sister restaurant overlooking an unobstructed view of the marsh, in time to see the cotton-candy-colored sky, listen to some groovy tunes, play lawn games and enjoy an array of creative cocktails and dishes. Try the fried local white fish tacos with cilantro-lime slaw and street corn salsa, or the local white fish ceviche with coconut chili leche de tigre.

And over one last Strawberry Basin (strawberry lemonade with gin and mint), make your plans to visit Newburyport again this summer.

affamatanbpt.com
brineoyster.com
chococoabaking.com
colbyfarms.com
harborcreamery.com
joppafinefoods.com
nbptbrewing.com
newburyportfish.com
olivescoffee.com
paddleinnsurf.com
riverwalkbrewing.com
sunsetclubpi.com
tannerymarketplace.com
thejoynestrestaurant.com
thenewburyportfarmersmarket.org

This story appeared in the Summer 2024 issue.