Photo by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

It always amazes me when I can make something creamy without any cream. I’ve got nothing against rich dairy, but sometimes it can mask the flavors of other ingredients I’m trying to highlight. Case in point: Leeks and fennel shine brightly when gently cooked in butter and puréed with reserved pasta water into a silky sauce. No cream needed! As with any pasta, it’s important to properly season the water: I use 2 teaspoons of kosher salt for each quart of water. To crown each serving, toast breadcrumbs (use homemade or panko) in anchovy-infused olive oil until crunchy. It’s just the contrast you want for such a velvety dish.

Serves 4

FOR THE ANCHOVY BREADCRUMBS: 
2 tablespoons olive oil 
6 anchovy filets, finely chopped 
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper 
½ cup breadcrumbs

FOR THE PASTA: 
2 medium leeks, white and light green parts sliced lengthwise and chopped 
1 teaspoon fennel seeds 
3 tablespoons butter 
1 medium fennel bulb, chopped, fronds reserved for garnish 
3 garlic cloves, chopped 
salt, to taste 
12 ounces short pasta (such as Seven Hills paccheri or gigli) 
1 tablespoon lemon juice 
olive oil, for serving

FOR THE ANCHOVY BREADCRUMBS:

Place a large sauté pan over medium heat and pour in the olive oil. Add the chopped anchovies and crushed red pepper and cook for 2–3 minutes. Add the breadcrumbs and cook, stirring often, until they have absorbed the oil and turn golden brown. Transfer to a small bowl and wipe the pan clean with a paper towel. Set aside until pasta is ready.

FOR THE PASTA:

Swish the chopped leeks around in a large bowl of cool water. Scoop them out of the water and drain on a clean towel. 

In the same pan used to make the anchovy breadcrumbs, heat the fennel seeds over medium heat for 2–4 minutes, or until fragrant and lightly toasted. Transfer to a mortar and pestle or spice grinder and pulverize.

Using the ratio of 2 teaspoons kosher salt per quart of water, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the pasta “al dente” according to the package. Strain the pasta, reserving 2 cups of the cooking water for use in the sauce.

Place the sauté pan over medium heat and melt the butter. Add the leeks, chopped fennel, garlic and ½ teaspoon salt; cook, stirring, for 3–5 minutes. The vegetables will begin to turn bright green and release some of their liquid. Add the ground fennel seeds and one cup of the reserved pasta water and cook for 4–6 minutes, or until the vegetables have softened.

Transfer the mixture to a blender and mix on high speed until smooth and creamy. Return the sauce to the sauté pan and place over medium-low heat. Add the lemon juice and cooked pasta and toss together until it is all well coated, adding additional cooking water if needed. 

Divide into shallow bowls and serve sprinkled with olive oil, anchovy breadcrumbs and reserved fennel fronds.

This recipe appeared in the Fall 2024 issue as part of a larger story on Leeks.