Photos by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

There’s an unsung hero of the local fall harvest. Come September, they’re stacked high on the tables of farmers markets like freshly chopped wood. Thatches of tangled roots might catch your eye, or the long cylindrical white stalks that grow into a spray of light and dark green leaves.

Leeks.

Beyond the iconic French soup, what can become of them? Thin slices can melt into sauces or lay the groundwork for sautés. Tough outer leaves can be relegated to long-simmering stockpots. But must the vegetable always be treated like a backup singer for more noteworthy ingredients? For the love of leeks, it’s time to start giving this allium the spotlight it deserves!

Leeks are related to garlic, onions and chives and have a mild, sweet flavor. In New England, they are harvested from August through November. Look for bright white specimens that are firm and have vibrant green tops.

Because they grow partially submerged in soil, and because of their leaf structure, lots of sand and dirt can become trapped between the layers of leeks. You need to take a little extra care when cleaning and preparing them. I follow Jacques Pepin’s lead: Instead of lopping off the entire dark green section like a pineapple top (he would be horrified by the waste!), use a small paring knife to cut away each outer leaf, one by one, right at the spot where it fades from dark to light green. Work your way up the leek until you’ve cut away four or five layers and no dark green remains (you can wash and save the tops for homemade chicken or vegetable stock). I then like to chop them according to whatever recipe I’m making and swish the pieces in a large bowl of cool water. The dirt and sand will sink to the bottom and you can scoop the leeks out with your hands.

The goal of these seasonal recipes is to emphasize the versatility of this often-undervalued vegetable. Braise them until soft and tender, like for the flatbread topping. Simmer them in large chunks, as in the leek, lamb and lentil soup. Purée them with fennel into a silky sauce for pasta. Or bake them into a cheesy, comforting casserole that might become everybody’s new favorite Thanksgiving side. Who’s the hero now?

This story appeared in the Fall 2024 issue.