A Weekend Away: Cape Ann in the Fall
Photos by Jesika Theos
Vast coastlines, the freshest seafood, friendly farm animals, elegant music and eclectic art highlight a foliage-rich drive for this fall’s North Shore getaway featuring Manchester-by-the-Sea, Gloucester, Rockport, Essex and Ipswich. This area, a hidden gem to many, is a short drive from Boston yet feels like a world away. There are so many spots worth trying, but we’ve narrowed down our list to a few. Be sure to bring a cooler for some seafood souvenirs and allow ample room to fill your trunk with a variety of local goodies from these charming coastal towns.
DAY 1: FRIDAY
On the way up the coast, stop at Helen’s Bottle Shop in Manchester-by-the-Sea’s town center for a bottle or two of bubbly for your hotel room. Owner Alexis Harwood sells a curated selection of natural wine, beer and other specialty items. For a scenic detour, drive down Beach Street and “spin” Singing Beach. Find your way back to Route 127 and continue on to Gloucester.
If bubbly or wine isn’t your fancy, hop over to Ryan & Wood Distilleries in Gloucester for a bottle of Beauport Vodka and the makings for a Cranberry Manor (Beauport Vodka, cranberry juice, fresh lime juice and ginger beer). Family-run Ryan & Wood is known for its small-batch spirits, made the old-fashioned way in a copper pot and column still. Then continue on the scenic drive from Manchester to Gloucester; both wooded and coastal, you’ll pass Ravenswood Park and the famed “Man at the Wheel” statue along the way.
Next, check in at the Beauport Hotel Gloucester. A true escape, this elegant boutique hotel perched on the water is walking distance to downtown Gloucester. Relax in the plush, nautically decorated rooms, many with water views, and be sure to take advantage of the seasonal rooftop pool, bar and sun terrace.
In the afternoon, take a short drive to Rocky Neck, a fun and quirky art colony dating back to 1850. This picturesque, densely settled neighborhood is full of galleries, restaurants and small shops featuring local artists and vendors.
Return to downtown Gloucester for a special dinner at Tonno or Short & Main. Tonno’s coastal Italian menu features freshly caught seafood, homemade pasta, gorgeous cuts of meat, locally sourced foods and an impressive list of 150 wines. Primi include spicy octopus “La Plancha'" and seasonal risotto; pasta dishes include spaghetti fra diavolo with shrimp, and tagliatelle Bolognese; secondi include an array of pesce and carne entrees. Classic Italian desserts include cannolis and tiramisu.
If you’re more in the mood for creative wood-fired pizza, thoughtfully crafted cocktails and an array of oysters, down the street is Short & Main, an intimate eatery run by three long-time friends. The robust and ever-changing menu showcases seasonal, local fare including raw bar options of sweet and briny Duxbury select oysters and countneck clams from Wellfleet. For pizza, try their creative combinations, like Amatriciana (tomato, housemade guanciale, Grana Padano, red onion, hot pepper and Pecorino), or the Funghi (mushrooms, scamorza, mozzarella, red onion, hot pepper, lemon, parsley and Pecorino)—or stick with a classic Margherita.
DAY 2: SATURDAY
With a busy day ahead, walk down Main Street to Sugar Magnolias (or “Sugar Mags,” as it’s called by many locals) known for its creative spins on breakfast classics. For a sweet start to the day, try the carrot cake pancakes with maple cream cheese butter or Almond Joy pancakes with shredded coconut, chocolate chunks and sliced almonds. For something savory, opt for the crab cakes with eggs or lobster benedict.
Hop back in the car and take Route 133 north through Essex to Ipswich.
Spend some time outdoors today: Head down scenic Argilla Road to Russell Orchards, a family-owned 120- acre farm with an abundant indoor farm market, winery and pick-your-own fruit. Walk around the barnyard and visit friendly farm animals, then peruse the open barn to pick up homegrown produce (remember that cooler!); cider, many varieties of apples, pumpkins and gourds; eggs, cheese and dairy; seasonal baked goods, fall décor and more. Make sure to sample their impressive selection of fruit wines and hard ciders, then pick up a dozen warm cider donuts to devour in the car.
If an indoor activity is more your speed, take a left on Route 133 and head down scenic Choate Street to the Bubble Factory, a glass-blowing studio and multimedia workshop offering classes to those seeking to tap into their creative side. Depending on the day, talented instructors offer different kinds of glass-blowing classes, from small pendants to serving bowls to seasonally inspired designs like glass pumpkins in the fall. Classes are usually one to two hours, and you learn to manipulate molten glass into art. No experience is required, just fun.
Continue northward on Route 133 for a beverage break. Grab a coffee or tea at Little Wolf Coffee Roasters and be sure to stock up on some coffee beans to go. Little Wolf sources and roasts high-quality coffee beans with a variety of flavor profiles. If you’d prefer a cold beer, pop into True North Ale Company or Ipswich Ale Brewery, both tried-and-true stops. In late September, True North will be releasing their Festbier and celebrating Oktoberfest; they’ll also be pouring their seasonal IPA, Season of the Witch. Ipswich Brewing is in their 30th year of brewing with an equally impressive lineup of beers on tap.
Head back towards Gloucester and pass through the historic shipbuilding down of Essex, overflowing with antique shops and delicious eateries. For a late lunch, head to Woodman’s and/or J.T. Farnham’s. These rival spots have been around for decades, both serving award-winning fried clams, lobster, haddock sandwiches and overflowing seafood plates. Overlooking the salt marsh, grab a box of clams and a cup of chowder from both places and do a taste test to determine your favorite.
Alternately, across from Woodman’s is C.K. Pearl overlooking the Essex River serving eclectic spins on local seafood and barbecue fare. Relax with a cocktail on the three-season screened porch and try some shared plates, like rare seared tuna tacos or a BBQ pulled pork “Sandy.” If you prefer some elevated pub fare and an extensive beer menu, head directly across the street to Great Marsh Brewing Company’s biergarten for snacks like a warm jumbo "everything" pretzel, fried bread-and-butter pickles, or fig and prosciutto flatbread. Wash them down with a cold pint of one of their European-style lagers or a darker-bodied English Brown Ale.
Return to the Beauport to put your feet up and refresh.
After a nap (you’re on vacation, after all) tune in to your love of music by catching a 5pm performance at the Shalin Liu Performance Center in Rockport. The impressive facade and oceanfront venue is known for its stellar acoustics and attracts well-known performers playing an array of music organized by Rockport Music, including classical, jazz, folk, pop and world music. Check their website for upcoming concert dates and be sure to reserve early. On your way to the show, fuel up with an espresso from Common Crow Natural Market in Gloucester and peruse their extensive array of organic produce, local specialty foods and collection of health and wellness products.
For a tranquil ending to the day, head to dinner at Talise (a Native American term meaning “lovely water”) on Lobster Cove in Annisquam Village in Gloucester. The intimate harborfront eatery rotates a menu with innovative dishes including local crudos, oysters, wild striped bass, braised grass-fed beef short rib, all with the freshest fall produce. Each dish is carefully assembled and celebrates the restaurant’s strong relationship with local farms for responsible sourcing, local fisherman and second-generation lobstermen out of Rockport and Gloucester.
DAY 3: SUNDAY
Sleep in and enjoy a luxurious Sunday brunch of prime steak with farm-fresh eggs or bread pudding French toast with strawberry brûlée and crème Anglaise overlooking the water at Beauport Hotel’s 1606 Restaurant & Oyster Bar before checking out. If you feel so inclined, enjoy a Dole Whip Mimosa or Bloody Mary with a lengthy list of fun accompaniments.
Upon checkout, grab your cooler and head to Fisherman’s Wharf Gloucester’s Drive Thru Seafood Market to pick up some fresh seafood to extend this getaway at home later on. The spot is a direct offloader of fresh seafood from community-based fishing boats. The prices are right with an assortment changing daily: haddock, swordfish, scallops and other shellfish. Before leaving Gloucester, stop in at goodlinens studio on Main Street and check out their curated collection of useful items for kitchen and home. Their signature 100% linen towels are sized for dishes, the bath—even the beach.
Drive up the coast to Rockport and take a rejuvenating nature walk on the tip of Cape Ann at Halibut Point State Park or explore the local artisan shops and galleries in the Bearskin Neck neighborhood. If you end up in Bearskin Neck, be sure to take a photo of Rockport’s Motif No. 1, a tiny red fishing shack, considered by many to be the most-often-painted building in America. After, hop into Tuck’s Candy Factory for some saltwater taffy and enjoy a lobster roll and fries at one of the Rockport Lobster Pool’s waterfront picnic tables before heading back home.
But wait! After a long weekend away, you’ll need an easy dinner at home. No trip through Annisquam is complete without a visit to The Willow Rest, a sweet neighborhood market serving their community for decades with gourmet sandwiches and brick-oven focaccia, baked goods, artisan cheeses, prepared foods and more—the perfect spot to grab a hot coffee and takeaway meal to fuel your ride home.
helensbottleshop.com
ryanandwood.com
beauporthotel.com
tonnorestaurant.com
shortandmain.com
sugarmags.com
russellorchards.com
bubblefactoryma.com
littlewolf.coffee
truenorthales.com
ipswichalebrewery.com
woodmans.com
jtfarnhams.com
ckpearl.com
thegreatmarsh.com
rockportmusic.org
commoncrow.com
taliserestaurant.com
fwgloucester.com
goodlinensstudio.com
tuckscandyfactory.com
thelobsterpool.com
willowrest.com
This story appeared in the Fall 2021 issue.
