Smashed Peas on Toast with Goat Cheese, Fresh Horseradish, Herbs and Smoked Trout

Photo by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

Who needs avocado when peas are in season? These bright green bites are topped with flakes of smoky trout—but if that’s hard to find try local hot smoked salmon from Boston Smoked Fish or some poached Gulf shrimp. And if you’re not into seafood, the toasts are equally delicious on their own; just make sure you’re using the best country-style sourdough bread you can find, with a tangy bite and a chewy crumb.

Note: While bottled prepared horseradish will do in a pinch, a whole fresh horseradish root keeps well in the fridge almost indefinitely and can be grated over everything from steak and stews to roasted salmon—even your Sunday Bloody Mary—so seeking one out is well worth the trouble; they’re usually easy to find in spring markets around the Passover holiday.

Serves 4 as a first course or a light lunch

2 pounds English peas in the pod (or 2 cups frozen peas, defrosted)
extra-virgin olive oil
1 shallot or small white onion, minced
1 big sprig fresh rosemary
pinch dried chili flakes (optional)
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lemon
6–8 big mint leaves
4 thick slices country-style sourdough bread
1 clove garlic
1 (4-ounce) tube fresh goat cheese
fresh horseradish root, for grating, or ½ teaspoon bottled prepared horseradish
4 ounces smoked trout, hot smoked salmon or 8 poached Gulf shrimp
fresh dill sprigs, for garnish

If using fresh peas in the pod, shell them (you should get about 2 cups), blanch them in boiling salty water for 2–3 minutes, drain and shock in ice water; drain again and set aside. (If using frozen peas, run them under cool water to defrost, drain and set aside.)

In a large skillet heat 3 tablespoons olive oil with the shallot/onion, whole rosemary sprig and chili flakes, if using. Sauté until shallots are lightly browned and rosemary leaves are crisp, then add the drained peas and season with a big pinch of salt and some black pepper. Cook, stirring, until peas are heated through. Remove the rosemary sprig, pull off the leaves into the peas and discard the stalk.

Using a Microplane grater, zest the lemon and then juice it. Scrape the pea mixture into the bowl of a food processor and add half the zest, 1 tablespoon juice and the mint leaves; pulse until coarsely puréed, adding a few tablespoons olive oil if the mixture is too tight. Be careful not to blend to a smooth paste—you want a chunky, “smashed” texture. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper or lemon if needed; pulse again to combine and set aside.

Toast or grill the bread slices and rub 1 side with the garlic clove. Mash the goat cheese with the remaining lemon juice and zest, a dribble of olive oil, a pinch each of salt and black pepper and if you’re using bottled horseradish, add it here (if you’re grating it fresh, wait until the end to use it as garnish).

Smear each piece of toast with the goat cheese mixture and top with some warm smashed peas. Arrange flakes of smoked fish or shrimp on top (if using) and if you’ve got a fresh horseradish root, grate it using a Microplane grater and finish with sprigs of fresh dill. Serve immediately.

Note: To make ahead, prepare the toasts and the goat cheese mixture. Wait until the last minute to cook and pulse the peas so they stay warm—part of the delight of these toasts is the contrast between the cold, lemony cheese and the warm, minty peas.

This recipe appeared in the Spring 2020 issue as part of a larger story on Peas.