An Edible Adventure… at home: A Summer’s Eve Italian Picnic

Photos by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

Let’s face it—summer feels different this year. The summer of 2020 will certainly be memorable, but not for the usual reasons—like an epic family vacation to Italy or a weekend in the Berkshires to see a concert at Tanglewood or peruse Mass MoCA. All that’s off. But while plans may have changed, the sun is shining and we are all busting to get outside and enjoy ourselves.

Perhaps this “pause button” on our travel plans will nudge us to take a closer look at the gorgeous spots Massachusetts has to offer. Fortunately, there are hundreds of beautiful places in our Commonwealth: secluded coves, watery bogs, mountaintops, even our own backyards. Whether in a grassy pasture, on an urban rooftop or at the beach, an elegant picnic supper is the perfect way to feel like you are getting away, at home.

This Italian-themed picnic was inspired by a trip I made to Italy years ago. My friend Lauren runs cycling vacation tours in Italy through her Arlington-based company, Ciclismo Classico, and she offered me a trip if I catered a big event for her. I thought about it for a whole 30 seconds before letting out a resounding “yes—you’ve got a deal.” I chose her Puglia trip—I had heard about the amazing food of this region, but in all honesty, I happily assumed it would be a bit easier in the saddle than the Dolomites or Apennines. Turns out Puglia has its fair share of hills, but the food lived up to its reputation and was truly inspirational.

Every day we cycled around 30–45 miles through ancient landscapes, olive groves, whitewashed villages and country roads lined with stonewalled farms. We could literally stand on our pedals and reach up to grab figs or pomegranates off roadside trees. What impressed me the most was the vegetable-forward diet in this region. At midday, we’d roll up to a farm for a meal showcasing a massive array of vegetable dishes. Tables were set up in the fields or in the barns; it really was like an epic veggie picnic. Peppers, eggplant, tomatoes and squash of all sorts were always well represented at these lunches; even humble vegetables like onions and wild chicories were equally revered. It was not unusual to see them presented in several different preparations on one table.

For the stuffed focaccia recipe in this picnic menu, I’ve incorporated escarole into the filling. But feel free to experiment with other chicories— endive and radicchio are both great alternatives. Sautéing chicories softens their bitter edge, but still leaves them robust enough to hold up to the funky Taleggio cheese and savory, fatty mortadella.

To my mind, nothing is more perfect for a summer’s eve picnic (Italian- themed or not) than the utterly refreshing Aperol Spritz. Drinking one always makes me feel like I’m on vacation. This spin on the classic uses sparkling rosé instead of prosecco. I’ve included some fresh cherries to soften the bitter notes of the Aperol; I muddle them with orange slices in a Mason jar for easy transport and let the flavors mingle for a while.

Puglia is also home to burrata cheese. Lucky for us, we can sourcesome locally produced, super-fresh mozzarella cheese (fresh being the operative word). Look for Mozzarella House (Peabody) or Maplebrook Farm (VT), beautifully lush spheres of mozzarella filled with creamy shreds of cheese. If you can’t find burrata you can substitute fresh mozzarella. I’ve paired it with summer-sweet peaches and salty prosciutto. Be sure to have a loaf of crusty bread or slices of grilled bread on hand for serving.

Beans also play a big role in the Pugliese diet. Chickpeas and favas are their mainstays, but I’ve opted for a local favorite: cranberry beans (also known as borlotti or shell beans). If you haven’t had them fresh from the pod, you are in for a treat. They are quick to cook, super creamy and so delightfully earthy. They are the perfect foil for briny, salty tuna and crisp, sweet fennel.

The French may end their meal with a plate of delicious cheese, but in Puglia it’s with a plate of crudité. Yes, that’s right. This one is made up of the freshest summer vegetables from the farmers market, like green and wax beans, sugar snap peas, radishes, cherry tomatoes, boiled baby potatoes, crisp cucumbers and wedges of sweet fennel with a basil-heavy aïoli for dunking.

But for me, no picnic is complete without something sweet. My Blueberry- Lemon-Polenta cake is sort of a Sephardic Jewish-Italian-New England mash-up. The crumbly, slightly crunchy Italian polenta cake gets sharp, tangy bursts of lemon from a technique I borrowed from my favorite Passover cake, an orange and almond cake using whole, boiled, puréed oranges. I’ve swapped the oranges for lemons and incorporated that method into a traditional Italian-style almond-polenta cake. I love how it utilizes the whole fruit (no zesting required), and combined with the blueberries, this cake sings summer.

YOUR EASY GUIDE TO A LITTLE SPLENDOR IN THE GRASS

Pack the Essentials—Make sure you’re fully equipped for an elegant adventure. Here’s a list of everything you’ll need for your outdoor excursion: picnic basket and cooler, bottled water (freeze overnight and use as an ice pack), outdoor dinnerware, flatware (bring real silverware!), napkins, glassware, hand sanitizer and/or wipes, corkscrew, tablecloth, bug spray or citronella candles, trash bag.

Choose Your Spot—Before heading out, be realistic about how far you want to lug the picnic gear. Check websites for maps and parking details (and also for COVID-related closures or restrictions). Consider using a backpack for some of your gear to free up your hands.

Here is just a sampling of the many great picnic destinations. A good place to look for additional locations is the Trustees of Reservations website—they have a tab specifically for picnicking.

DeCordova Museum, Lincoln
Larz Anderson Park, Brookline
Great Brook Farm State Park, Carlisle
Bradley Palmer State Park, Topsfield

This story appeared in the Summer 2020 issue.