The Hidden Bounty of Winter Vegetables

Photos by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

We’re lucky that so many New England farms grow vibrant, nutritious storage vegetables and hoop-house greens to sell deep into the winter, allowing us to enjoy local produce year round despite our climate. Between the many Greater Boston winter markets and available CSA share boxes, it’s possible to eat a primarily locally grown diet even after the first hard frost in late November. Yes, the selection is limited and dominated by roots, greens, squash, brassicas and tubers, but if you take some time to get creative in the kitchen, winter produce can be just as colorful, rich and delicious as the summer harvest.

Farmers market tables are piled high in winter with familiar greens like cabbage and kale and some slightly more unfamiliar roots like kohlrabi and rutabaga, spicy black radishes, purple top turnips and multicolored beets. If you’re unfamiliar with these vegetables, now’s the time to get to know them—they vary in texture and sweetness, but are generally mellow when cooked and extremely healthy to eat. You just have to know what to do with them!

In my early days of cooking, I felt obliged to strictly follow written recipes, even if that meant buying rare spices for just one dish that ended up collecting dust in my pantry. Over time, I began to think of a recipe more like a template—a basic outline with suggestions. If a recipe calls for a bunch of different herbs, it’s OK if I only have a couple of them; the outcome may be different but still tasty. While this philosophy was born out of practical constraints, it’s also made cooking less stressful, more fun and with less wasted food. I have room to play and be creative with my ingredients while using up what I have on hand.

So I encourage you to see these recipes as a starting point. Try swapping out a spice or two based on your personal taste or what you’ve got in your pantry. You might create something even better! As a teacher, I know that some students dive happily into flexibility and experimentation, while others find it daunting. If you prefer to follow recipes to the letter, be sure to read my headnotes; I’ve offered specific ideas on how you can experiment by varying flavors and ingredients. The more you make a recipe your own, the more likely you are to make it again.

While I certainly have my go-to flavors, I’ve found that mixing them up is the key to consistently cooking most nights without getting into a rut. I created this collection of cozy vegetarian recipes featuring a wide variety of flavors and textures that are simple enough to fit into a busy weeknight schedule. Some are side dishes to go alongside meat, fish, eggs or other protein; some are full vegetarian meals. Visit your local farmers market this winter (or join a cold-season CSA) and enjoy roots and brassicas in a whole new way.

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