Edible Food Finds: Lin's Little Kitchen
Photos by Linda Campos
Linda “Lin” Theth is creating contemporary Southeast Asian cuisine in her small Newburyport restaurant, but don’t call it fusion. “People keep saying ‘fusion,’” she says. “What I’m doing is an interpretation of the food of my upbringing, using what I’ve learned in school and professional kitchens.”
Lin’s upbringing was in a tight-knit community in Dover, NH. Her mother, Vanh, one of 11 siblings, is of Chinese heritage but grew up in Laos where she met Lin’s father, Tommy, who is Cambodian. This meant many relatives in and out of the house and lots of cooking. “Food was and is the focal point for any occasion. I was that kid that just picked up on everything the grownups were doing and wouldn’t leave them alone. Finally they put me to work with little jobs like separating dough wrapper rolls.”
At 10 years old, she did a “cooking enrichment” class in the fourth grade and by high school she was on a clear path to a life in the kitchen. She credits the culinary arts program at the Dover Regional Career Teaching Center, especially Chef Instructor Joe Prikola.
Two years into her culinary studies at Johnson & Wales University she interned at Vida Cantina in Portsmouth, NH, and stayed for six years. Under the tutelage of Chef David Vargas, she mastered all the kitchen stations in Vargas’ innovative Mexican restaurant and earned the position of chef de cuisine.
Chef Vargas’ commitment to local producers and adapting ingredients codified the lessons of Theth’s childhood. “We were always substituting ingredients and working with the seasons. At Vida Cantina we were in tune with the community of farmers, butchers— especially Tuttle Farm [now known as Tendercrop Farm].”
Lin’s Little Kitchen was designed with an open kitchen and a small dining room. “The food travels well, so takeaway was always part of the plan—we didn’t think it would be the majority of our business due to the pandemic.” The menu is simple: “all Mom-approved.”
Theth’s menu includes Momma’s egg rolls, crispy and chewy at the same time and filled with crunchy vegetables—and yes, they are Vanh’s recipe. “People have picked up their order and called from the car to say they’d eaten the rolls before they reached home. They order another and turn around.”
Her bánh mì sandwiches are a hearty mini-vacation to Saigon, filled with pork or a vegetarian option, both with her signature clever balance of sweet, salty and sour with pickled vegetables providing immense satisfaction with every crunchy, silky bite. Another family favorite, pho soup, is made perfect from home practice. “We eat it all year long. While most people would be setting up their backyard barbecues, we’d be getting pho broth going. Overseas family would be visiting and everyone just grabbed a bowl. It is also a cure-all: If you have the flu or head cold it will bring you right back to life.”
This story appeared in the Spring 2021 issue.
