The Golden Heirs
Photos by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty
For a very long time in human history, rice was currency. Trade fulfilled our needs by exchanging what we needed for what others needed. Money is recent, and in many ways regarded as the lowest form of currency. We don’t need money; we want or need what it can provide.
The cultivation of Carolina Gold rice fueled the wealth of the South and furthered the exploitation of my ancestors. The rice came here from Africa, from farmers who were specifically enslaved in the Americas for their skill. Known as the “golden seed,” nutty, aromatic Carolina Gold is the oldest rice in the U.S., having exploded to some 3.5–5 million bushels of production—nearly all produced by enslaved labor—before nearing extinction post Civil War. Today, there are several producers who revived Carolina Gold production in the late 1980s using saved seeds, as well as organizations dedicated to preserving the history of Carolina Gold and how its production built the wealth of America.
Makes 1 cocktail
2 ounces Bols Genever
2 ounces Carolina Gold rice water or rice milk (see instructions below)
¾ ounce peach shrub (see instructions below)
1 bar spoon of local honey
pinch of salt
edible gold flakes or glitter (optional)
Build all ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Fill the shaker with ice and shake well, about 15 seconds. Discard ice and shake again. Strain into coupe glass. Garnish with edible gold flakes or glitter on the rim, or stir directly into glass.
FOR CAROLINA GOLD RICE WATER OR RICE MILK:
Soak ½ cup of rice in ½–¾ cup water (less water for creamier results) for at least 2 hours, or until rice is soft. For rice water, strain water off of rice and use as is. For rice milk, blend soaked rice and liquid and strain well. To use leftover rice water or rice milk in other applications, add salt, honey or other sweetener to taste.
FOR PEACH SHRUB:
Slice 1–2 ripe peaches. On a kitchen scale, measure out equal parts apple cider vinegar, sugar and peach slices. Bring vinegar and sugar to a low boil. Add peaches, several cloves, a few pecans, a couple of cinnamon sticks and a couple star anise pods and simmer on low, until peaches are wilted. Strain liquid through cheesecloth or a milk bag into a jar and store.
This recipe appeared in the Fall 2021 issue as part of a larger story, Home and Away: Cocktails for Fall.
