Mussels with Tomato, Saffron and Garlic Toast

Photo by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty

This dish of quickly steamed mussels comes together in a flash (just 10 minutes once you begin cooking), so be sure to have all your ingredients prepped and at the ready. Start with the garlic toast, then move on to the mussels. Briefly rinse the bivalves under cool water—don’t immerse them or you will lose their flavorful brine. If you come across an occasional “beard” (fibrous threads the mussels use to attach themselves to surfaces), grip firmly and pull toward the hinge end to remove. Check that all your mussels are alive; any open shells should be tapped on a hard surface. If they don’t close within a few seconds, toss them.

A large pan ensures even heat contact, so if you don’t have something that’s at least 14 inches wide, divide your ingredients and cook in two batches. Whatever you use—skillet, sauté pan or wok—it should be extremely hot before adding the mussels. This forces them open quickly without overcooking. It also emulsifies the wine and butter into a sublime broth for mopping up with the garlic toast.

Serves 4

For the garlic toast:
1 loaf crusty sourdough bread, cut into ¾-inch slices
olive oil, for the pan
1 large clove garlic, peeled and cut in half
salt, to taste

Mussels:
½ teaspoon saffron threads
¾ cup dry white wine
2 pounds mussels, rinsed and debearded
2/3 cup canned diced tomatoes
8 tablespoons butter
1 large shallot, finely chopped
1 small bunch cilantro, roughly chopped

For the garlic toast: In a heavy skillet over medium heat, add enough olive oil to coat the bottom of the pan. Once shimmering, add as many slices of bread as will fit in one layer. Cook on both sides until brown and toasted. Repeat with remaining bread and additional oil. Rub each slice with the cut side of the garlic clove and sprinkle with salt.

For the mussels: In a small bowl, combine the saffron and wine and set aside.

Place an extra-large skillet, sauté pan or wok over high heat. Have a domed lid nearby. When the skillet is very hot (a drop of water beads up instantly), add the mussels and cover immediately. Keep covered and over high heat for 1–2 minutes.

When most of the shells have opened, add the wine and saffron, tomatoes, butter and chopped shallot. The liquid will bubble up vigorously, so be careful. Cover, shake pan gently and cook over high heat for another minute or two, until all the mussels are open and the broth is golden and emulsified. Taste the broth and season with salt if you wish. Divide among 4 shallow bowls, sprinkle with cilantro and serve with the garlic toast.

This recipe appeared in the Winter 2023 issue as part of a larger story on Undervalued Local Seafood.