Summer 2022 Publisher’s Letter

A lot has happened since we last met on this page, back in mid-March. The then-nascent war in Ukraine has edged into its fourth month. Gas prices (and just about all other prices) have risen and stayed high. Our democracy has been tested and our fundamental rights are now challenged; we’ve endured umpteen national tragedies, each more devastating than the last; and here in the Commonwealth, along with an unexpected COVID surge, we’ve had such a dry spring that we’re firmly in drought territory, well before the beginning of meteorological summer. What a rough patch inside of an already rough few years.

It’s times like these that make me want to pack it all up and get the heck out for a while—so that’s exactly what we’ll do. By the time you read this note, Chris and I will be in Italy with a baker’s dozen of intrepid Edible readers, eating and drinking our way across Campania and Puglia on our long-planned tour with Go Ahead, originally scheduled for June of 2020. It’ll feel a world away from the troubles we’ve faced this year and maybe, just maybe, I’ll return inspired and rejuvenated and ready to tackle the real work ahead. But before I go, I’ll do what I can to donate my time, money and energy to the causes I believe in: Everytown for Gun Safety, Planned Parenthood, Fenway Health, 350.org, Community Servings and World Central Kitchen, to name just a few. And I’ll be kind to myself knowing that while I can always do more, this is enough—for now.

I hope that wherever you find yourself this summer, you’ve taken this issue to a quiet spot to indulge in a moment of self care. There’s truly something for everyone this season, like our exciting new partnership with Barefoot Books, the Concord-based children’s book publisher. Together we produced the first of many Edible for Kids sections to keep our youngest readers busy (at least for an afternoon—or perhaps just an hour!). If you like what you see here, you’ll find much more for your budding chef/environmentalist/poet/linguist at barefootbooks.com. And in a continuing effort to start kids early on the path towards healthy, locally grown food, MA Food System Collaborative’s Winton Pitcoff dedicates his seasonal column to food and ag programs in the Commonwealth’s schools, fostering a lifelong appreciation for our local food system.

The rest of this issue is pretty agriculture-focused, too, and right at the start of our growing season. Kimi Ceridon takes us to Lincoln’s Codman Community Farms to see how new technology can improve a shopping experience on one of Greater Boston’s oldest nonprofit working farms. Less than a mile away, Lisa Zwirn visits Hannan Healthy Foods, a new CSA and farm stand featuring harder-to-find produce from South- and Southeast Asia, committed to serving an immigrant community in search of a taste of home. Before you head to your fave North Shore beach this summer, be sure to read Deb Kaneb’s piece on Grant Family Farm, then stop by the bucolic farmstand in West Newbury for eggs, vegetables and flowers for your table. (While you’re up there, visit Gloucester’s Pastaio Via Corta; Jackie Cain went for the handmade heritage grain pastas, but found natural wines, local veg and an array of imported Italian treasures, too—it’s a can’t-miss stop on any visit to Cape Ann.)

If you’re in Central MA this summer, don’t miss the two incredible Worcester County farms we’ve profiled here. Margaret LeRoux caught up with Ryan McKay of Lilac Hedge Farm to chronicle his incredible progress and expanding farm business since first writing his story for us in 2014; bring the kids for ice cream and a visit with a camel(!) and some ostriches. And for beer lovers, Matt Tota profiles Milk Room Brewing, a former dairy farm-turned-bison farm-turned brewery. Highlights? The picturesque outdoor taproom and farm-raised bison burgers. A pair of unique farm experiences, to be sure.

Closer to home, Rachel Caldwell visits a handful of new-fashioned convenience marts serving their communities with everything from natural wine and caviar to lottery tickets, dish soap, spuckies and Lunch on draft. Andrea Pyenson dives into a new program called Fresh Connect; in partnership with key local healthcare players, this food-as-medicine prescription program connects people who need access to healthy food with the funds to buy it. And Jolivia Barros checks in with the folks at Back Bay’s new Café Sauvage; their all-day menu features a multicultural taste of Paris-meets-Africa-meets the rest of the world with dishes ranging from a croque madame to Injera crêpes to banh mi with a side of plantains. Bon appetit!

For home-based entertaining, we have three don’t-miss recipe stories to inspire your summer weekend plans: From master baker Andrew Janjigian comes a series of Dutch babies—one savory, one sweet and one so dead-simple you’ll be making it every Sunday through August. Then, the wife-and-husband team behind Newton’s Thistle & Leek share their leisurely, late-afternoon menu, an ode to New England, a meal to share with dear friends and cold rosé. And if it’s beastly hot and takeout is your best and coolest option, Drink’s Fred Yarm has you covered for the cocktails, with his herbaceous, citrusy muddled Smashes—slushy, icy and oh-so refreshing, perfect for the dog days a’coming.

Finally, on behalf of all of us at Edible Boston and Edible Worcester—contributors, readers and advertisers alike—I extend our deepest condolences to the family and team of Debra Stark, a giant in local food, the founder of West Concord’s Debra’s Natural Gourmet, a trusted source for naturopaths and gourmets alike. Debra passed away in April; her “Little Store That Could” lives on, bearing her name, doing the work for her beloved community. She will be sorely missed.

Peace,

Sarah