Edible Food Find: Bab Al-Yemen
Photos by Michael Piazza
Bab Al-Yemen, a new food experience in the Fenway-Kenmore neighborhood, is Boston’s first and only Yemeni restaurant. Owner Ahmed Mahmood chose the name, meaning “the gate of Yemen,” in honor of the main gate of Yemen’s capital city Sanaa, as a tribute to his heritage and to convey the authenticity of the Yemeni food.
Born in New Mexico and raised in Yemen, Mahmood moved to the East Coast, eventually developing a passion to share his culture with others. Before opening Bab Al-Yemen he ran a fast-food restaurant serving Middle Eastern foods in Cambridge, which closed during the pandemic. Mahmood knew he needed to be intentional with his second chance. Now he welcomes visitors from around the region to experience a piece of home, and his restaurant serves as the hub for Yemeni culture in Boston.
Even if you’ve never been to Yemen, Mahmood has masterfully created a space for every guest to experience the culture. Upon entering Bab Al-Yemen, all your senses are activated gradually: It begins with the sounds of the Arabic language in the Middle Eastern songs and flows gently and intricately together with the rich aromas of spices and meats. Depending on your mood, you can enter the restaurant in the front section overlooking Commonwealth Avenue, under stained glass windows, without your shoes; or, if you don’t want to remove your shoes, there are regular tables. The restaurant is decorated with photos of historic landmarks, traditional Yemeni items and handmade replicas of Yemeni homes. And just as in a traditional Yemeni home, you should be ready to eat with your hands.
“You can find unique food here and there [in Boston] but I wanted to have something where you can find the food and the culture as well,” says Mahmood. “You can see I tried to go the extra mile with the decorations and reflecting the Yemeni scene in this place. And my whole point of it is for people to walk in here and feel like they are somewhere different.”
If there’s one item to try at Bab Al-Yemen, it’s lamb, in any form. It’s so tender, a knife isn’t required. There’s the Fahsah, a shredded lamb stew cooked with onions and tomatoes, served alongside freshly baked bread made in a clay oven tanoor to be dipped in the stew. Then there’s the most popular dish, the Lamb Mandi, lamb shank cooked in special Yemeni mandi spices including cumin, cardamom and coriander, over turmeric basmati smoked rice. Every dish is served with Marak (broth) and Sahaweq, a traditional Yemeni sauce made with chili, tomatoes, garlic, herbs and feta cheese.
The menu provides a wide range of traditional Yemeni dishes but there are also some familiar Middle Eastern staples like hummus and falafel. The Yemeni cocktail is a perfect complement to your dish of choice. It’s a smoothie made with mangoes, bananas, dates, strawberries, milk and Vimto, a raspberry syrup. Since Bab Al-Yemen is halal, this cocktail is alcohol-free and truly refreshing. To complete the meal, end with an Adani tea, a traditional Yemeni tea of various spices mixed with milk.
Mahmood knows that Bab Al-Yemen is the place where many will try Yemeni food for the first time. His mission is twofold: to create a more positive narrative of Yemen and its people and to share delicious food and a vibrant culture with every person who walks into the space.
Bab Al-Yemen is open on weekdays 2–8pm and weekends noon to 10pm. So grab some friends and family and make your way over to break bread over authentic Yemeni food in Kenmore Square.
babalyemenboston.com
468 Commonwealth Ave, Boston
This story appeared in the Winter 2024 issue.
