L’Apéro Français: An All-Appetizer Dinner
Photos, recipes and styling by Béatrice Peltre
Amidst the sparkle and shimmer of the holidays a medley of emotions emerges, from eagerness and excitement to a hint of overwhelm. Personally, I am the embodiment of these sentiments, given that my daughter’s birthday falls on Christmas Day. Hence, I try to simplify and make our festive meals more relaxed and approachable. And in recent years, I, like many other French people, have opted for an “apéro dinatoire,” a meal made up of small bites and nibbles in lieu of a more formal sit-down supper.
“Ah, L'apéro.” It’s a term that holds a special place in the hearts of those of us with French heritage, a repository of stories deeply rooted in the culture of France. Short for apéritif, l'apéro signifies a unique social gathering where friends and family come together over drinks and amuse-bouches—those delightful bite-sized morsels—before lunch or dinner. I fondly remember these moments during my childhood, when groups of friends or relatives gathered around a coffee table adorned with an array of bowls of crispy, savory tidbits of all shapes and sizes. The adults sipped sophisticated cocktails, while the kids enjoyed juices, and the room buzzed with lively conversations that could go on for hours. L'apéro is an essential tradition.
In recent years, a new concept emerged in France known as the “l'apéro dinatoire,” born from the fusion of the traditional apéritif and the idea of forgoing a formal dinner or lunch. “It’s basically the love child of the apéro and the dinner party,” says Rebekah Peppler, author of Apéritif: Cocktail Hour the French Way. The essence of l'apéro dinatoire lies in serving smaller, heartier plates, with less cooking for the host, alongside beverages. And so, instead of a full and formal holiday dinner, people simply embrace l'apéro as their meal, allowing for a more relaxed and communal dining experience.
Why not consider this festive approach? That’s precisely what I’m presenting here, along with a selection of recipes designed to serve this very purpose.
Let’s kick things off with verrines (French trifles or parfaits), the secret to an elegant and sophisticated holiday small dish menu. Their visual allure leaves a lasting impression without requiring complex culinary skills. In the recipe below, I’ve incorporated locally sourced cold smoked salmon from Boston Smoked Fish, pairing it with thinly shaved fennel and diced apples, in a zesty lemon-infused yogurt sauce. Additionally, we have fresh oysters from Wellfleet, accompanied by a bright, gingery vinaigrette that adds a zesty kick. Small buckwheat flour blinis complement the ensemble, featuring smoked trout from Maine or hot-smoked salmon from Twin Light Smokehouse, fish roe, Vermont-sourced crème fraîche (because everything tastes better with crème fraîche) and grapes for a burst of freshness. To round out the experience, I’m proposing a champagne cocktail infused with the delightful flavors of elderflower, ginger and pear, and roasted nuts to go along. Nothing here requires a master chef’s touch. You can prepare everything well in advance, granting you more time to savor the company of your guests. To me, that’s the perfect recipe for a successful celebration.
This story appeared in the Winter 2024 issue.
