Peter Davis: Henrietta's Table in the Charles Hotel, Harvard Square
Profile FOUR in this series: Boston Chefs and the Covid-19 Pandemic
Countless trips to Henrietta’s Table over the past two decades. The clatter of dishes. The distant laughter across the restaurant. The muffled conversations surrounding my table. The open kitchen’s farm-to-table fare. All of these lulled me into an intoxicated bliss.
Henrietta’s Table in the Charles Hotel has long been at the crossroads for travelers, performers and regulars alike. I once sat at a table laden with freshly squeezed orange juice, six layers of fruit-covered pancakes and a pot full of coffee. The revelry of the costumed actors from the American Repertory Theater was my only distraction.
The intimacy of such gatherings is precious. I anticipate the day when we can do it all again … only this time we’ll be wearing masks of our own.
What are your thoughts right now in the peak moment of the pandemic crisis?
The well-being of my family, staff, friends and all humans.
When the guidelines were released in mid-March, what were your immediate thoughts?
What is happening with the associates I work with and that have supported myself and the business for so many years.
What steps did you take to prepare for the lockdown—both professionally and personally?
I was traveling in Europe, so first was to get back home and then into my two-week quarantine. From Europe I was emailing and texting with those in the business back home and we started contingency plans for the “what ifs”.
Are you using this time to experiment with other dishes or are you not working with food at all?
Playing with some things at home, cooking for some elderly neighbors and organizing some drop-offs from the hotel for first responders.
Describe the differences you’ve experienced between being at home for the past five weeks as opposed to running your restaurant.
A lot of time on my hands. I miss the day-to-day interaction with the staff and guests and it's awfully quiet living alone with my two dogs. I walk a lot and am catching up on 40 years of lost rest.
Everybody’s talking about Netflix, HBO and other TV streaming; do you have any recommendations you want to share? Have you found the time to read, and if so, what are you reading now?
The movies I recommend are “The Biggest Little Farm,” “Sustainable,” “Honey-land” and “Alone in the Wilderness.” Best book I read was “Let My People Go Surfing.”
What are the staples in your kitchen that you can’t do without? Have you been able to keep these items in stock?
I always like to have homemade chicken stock and lots of fresh vegetables. Keeping everything [in stock] is possible, just a little more inconvenient.
What is your go-to menu now that you are cooking at home?
All across the board. Lots of soups, grilled and smoked items.
What kind of safety precautions are you taking?
Social distancing, wearing a face covering and being aware.
How are you coping with stress?
Pretty good. I do some breathing yoga which seems to help.
Because of the stay-at-home rule have you been propelled to do things that you never thought you had time for? If so what?
Lots of home chores I never had time to do. Painting the interior, working on my boats and doing maintenance that I kept putting off.
Will this pandemic crisis change the way you do business in the future and if so how?
I am sure it will. We are waiting for the guidelines to come out and will follow the scientific approach on how to move forward. We have begun formulating plans with new steps of service and seating plans, anticipating what will follow. I have a great team and we are just trying to stay ahead so we are ready.
Would the seating capacity of your restaurant change because of the social distancing even when the guidelines no longer exist?
I think it will, but we will follow the guidelines set forth.
Is there anything you would like to share in reflection on this crisis that we are all in together?
We all need to do our part. This is not easy for anyone worldwide. Suck it up and figure out what role you can play to get back to some normalcy.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity; it appeared in May 2020 as an online exclusive, part of a larger series of interviews with local chefs during the Covid-19 pandemic.
