Revisiting Jamie Bissonnette: Coppa, Toro and Little Donkey
PROFILE FOUR IN THIS SERIES: REVISITING BOSTON CHEFS AND THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC
What has been the major change since we last connected during our summer interview?
Since the summer we have done so much pivoting, I think that I need new ball bearings. We have opened and closed patio extensions, bought/broke/fixed many patio heaters, put more food into plastic containers than on plates and closed one restaurant for hibernation.
Do you offer winter outdoor dining and can you describe it? What would I need to wear to stay comfortable?
We tried to offer winter dining at Little Donkey. The demand was just not there. At Coppa, we had to take down our patio December 1st. We have some outside seating with heat lamps. Come dressed for Après Ski. We also have some affordable blankets for sale. At Toro we have indoor and some outdoor dining as well. Heaters are on!
How is the restaurant, cooking and preparing your menus now as opposed to pre-pandemic times?
We are streamlining the menus. As we look at the product mix, we can see what is selling and what travels well. With that data, we can curate a menu that will travel well.
Please describe your winter menu? Any specials coming up for Valentine’s Day?
Coppa is mostly the same. Adding some more wintery pastas and pizza. We will have some sort of Valentine’s Day special menu. TBD. At Toro we have scaled the menu back to be make us more efficient. We are super stoked on the winter Paella, and Orzo Risotto (a classic San Sebastian dish).
Have you adapted a winter takeout menu? Can you describe it?
We have. At Coppa, we are thinking of dishes that can sit and stay hot, like lasagna, and hearty pastas. At Toro we are doing more with paella and braised dishes.
What dishes are the most popular for takeout?
Pizza rules everything around us at Coppa. Toro offering Paella to go is new. The guests seem wicked pumped.
What do you see happening in the coming months?
We are looking forward to some clarity from the government on what help can be provided. We see Little Donkey reopening from hibernation sometime in the second quarter, we hope. It would be great if guests were more accepting of outdoor dining in the South End.
When the vaccine arrives and the pandemic subsides, what are the top three things you will do first?
For the restaurants we will celebrate with our staff. Have some epic meals and turn the music up. Personally, I would love to get to a beach, bury my feet in the sand and read a book with Song, my bride.
Can you tell us your most challenging moment since the onset of the pandemic, and your most positive highlights?
The most challenging moment was realizing that we would have to shutter Toro NYC permanently. Some highlights: Feeding frontline workers through Off Their Plate. Connecting with some of our staff on a new level. Finding Bikram yoga and maintaining a consistent practice.
How have you been both personally and professionally grappling with life surrounding these tough times? What’s your source of relaxation and/or method of survival?
It has been hard. Professionally, I often feel that I lack purpose, and become extremely unmotivated. I get caught up in a sadness that is surrounding our industry and threatens to engulf it.
Personally, I am struggling without the energy and outlet that the restaurants provide. Song has helped me find my yoga practice. Yoga helps with mindfulness, and I need that to get through the chaos.
Finally what would you like to see for 2021 in the face of a new chapter—medically, politically and spiritually?
Medically—the vaccine will be great, assuming there are no issues with it or the roll out. Politically, I hope that we can learn to better advocate for the people whom are most vulnerable. Spiritually—I would like to remember to breathe more and make smaller movements/adjustments.
This interview appeared as an online exclusive in January 2021.
