In Praise of the Braise
Photos by Michael Piazza / Styled by Catrine Kelty
Braising is an important part of wintertime cooking, using low temperatures and a lot of time to warm the kitchen and transform inexpensive, tough cuts of meat into tender, spoonable stews. In the darkest days of winter, when dusk falls in mid-afternoon and I crave the warmth of a stick-to-your-ribs slow-cooked supper, I get to work early and braise something—almost always on the bone.
Here are three distinctly different braises with a few things in common: They’re all made with white wine for a resulting sauce that’s clean and bright and not too rich, more like a subtle blanquette de veau than a dark, claret-rich boeuf Bourguignon or stout-infused lamb stew; they all taste better when made in advance and make terrific leftovers; and each is enhanced right before serving with verdant flat-leaf Italian parsley, an anything-but-boring wintertime workhorse.
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This story appeared in the Winter 2022 issue.