Edible Interview with Chef Karen Akunowicz, an Online Exclusive
Portrait: Michael Piazza / Fox & the Knife photos: Brianne Beckman
A sip of water, another spritz of my fragrance and a final check of my braille questions and I was walking into what had been named Boston’s Best New Restaurant for 2019. I was about to meet a woman who in the past week had returned from Italy, made a stop in New York City for a James Beard gala and set our interview for four days later. With suitcases not yet unpacked, Karen Akunowicz greeted me in her working attire, complete with her trademark pink hair. A 2018 James Beard winner herself, the Fox & the Knife owner and chef is one of Boston’s biggest stars on the culinary horizon.
Although it was just 2pm, the staff was already prepping for dinner in the open kitchen that is built to offer an inclusive experience. With obvious passion, Akunowicz described her 75-seat South Boston restaurant, noting its details including a mural that depicts many aspects of her life.
In 10 months, Akunowicz will expand her restaurant to include outdoor dining. In the meantime, she has already expanded her brand by opening up SloPoke, a fast-casual spot specializing in dressed-up raw fish and veggie bowls, at the Beacon Hill Whole Foods Market.
EDIBLE BOSTON: What is the story behind the name Fox & the Knife?
KAREN AKUNOWICZ: I almost named the restaurant Volpe, which is fox in Italian. I decided against it, but the fox part stuck. One night when brainstorming, [my spouse] LJ came up with the name, because I’m the Fox with the Knife.
In 2015 you were nominated for a James Beard Award. Then in 2018 you won. What was the element that brought you to success during that three-year span?
I don’t know that there was an element per se. I was consistent, I tried to be better all of the time, I worked hard to be true to my vision about the food. Historically it takes women twice as many years to win as men once they are nominated. So, factor that in as well.
Where were you when you learned you were a James Beard winner? In the kitchen? At work? In Italy?
The awards are held at the Lyric Opera in Chicago every year. It’s a big black-tie event, and I attended with LJ, and my business partners (and dear friends) Joanne Chang and Christopher Myers.
Why did you choose South Boston, what’s there that attracted you it?
I feel that South Boston chose me, as much as I chose it. I wanted to be part of a neighborhood, and the community here has completely embraced us. I couldn't be happier with our little corner on West Broadway; we are so lucky to have landed here.
As a celebrity chef, who’s been described as attractive, approachable and articulate, you are often recognized in airports, supermarkets—do you do anything differently now than before you became a celebrity chef? Or are you pretty much the same person?
It is so, so nice to be recognized for my work. How lucky am I?! I love chatting with people about the restaurant, or my cookbook or “Top Chef.” I think I'm pretty much the same, at least people who know me say I am—so I'll take their word for it.
Can you offer up one funny story that has happened in one of those settings? How about bizarre?
The other day I was in the bathroom at JFK and a woman walked past me and smiled and walked out the door. She then came back up behind me super quiet and yelled "I love you!" Jumped about a mile.
While traveling is it a culinary expedition? What do you bring home? A recipe that you will adapt? Create a menu? Do you add or introduce a special ingredient?
I bring home ideas, ingredients, equipment—anything I can fit in my suitcase. I just got back from Alba, Italy, and had to buy a new suitcase there to bring everything back.
What is your favorite European city for dining? What’s your favorite restaurant? Can you tell us why or offer us a vivid description?
I love Naples, Italy. I love the food, the people and the way it feels in the air. It has a little grittiness that resonates with me, and my heart feels content when I am there. AND pizza.
Has being openly gay created any challenges traveling abroad or in U.S. cities less progressive than Boston?
I am really lucky as a femme and a feminine-presenting person, I don't have too many issues traveling alone. I do know that all of the masculine people that I have loved, traveled with and walked through the world with do not have that luxury. I have traveled with someone and have had the security person at the airport ask if we were mother and son, because he couldn't understand how else we fit together. I take precautions and am aware in a way that I am typically not at home. It's unfortunate but true.
As an openly gay chef do you consider yourself a role model? What responsibilities does that carry?
I think the greatest responsibility that I have is to be and stay visible. To make sure to create space where I can for others and to always be open and honest about who I am. I felt that being on “Top Chef” was an opportunity to talk about being queer on a large platform, and visibility matters.
What drew you to working in a restaurant and honing your gifts?
I love cooking for people, but I also love the heat, hustle and pressure of working in a restaurant kitchen.
Do you consider your college education an asset to your career? What yoked you into obtaining a college degree from the University of Massachusetts and then graduating from the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts?
I never thought I would be a chef; I thought I was going to be a social worker. I don't regret my degree for a minute—or the time I spent at UMass. Everything we do takes us to where we are.
What was the defining moment when you knew you had a gift for your own signature style?
I think it slowly evolved without me realizing it. My dear friend and general manager Alexandra Hayden at Fox & the Knife said to me about 7 years ago, "I would know your food blindfolded"—it was an aha moment for me.
Who influenced your interest in cooking? Was your mom or dad part of the plausible genetic connection, or was there a chef somewhere in your family’s DNA?
No chefs, although both of my grandmas were good cooks. I started cooking to impress a girl, so not the most noble of [reasons].
What is your favorite dish on the Fox & the Knife menu? What is a favorite among customers?
I love all of the dishes! The taleggio-stuffed foccacia, grilled broccoli Caesar salad and tagliatelle Bolognese are customer favorites.
Do you have a holiday menu planned?
We are celebrating New Year’s Eve with a white truffle party at Fox & the Knife.
What’s your favorite drink?
A negroni.
What do you have in your refrigerator and cabinets at home right now?
Champagne, green juice, Parmigiano Reggiano, hard boiled eggs.
What ingredients do you always have on hand?
Thin spaghetti, San Marzano tomatoes, olive oil and garlic.
Do you cook at home or does your spouse cook for you or with you?
We eat a lot of take-out sushi.
What is your typical schedule? Your day? How much time are you in your restaurant?
I wake up at around 7:30am and have coffee. I head to the restaurant to work on new dishes, or work with our pasta maker. I have meetings, email etc. in the early afternoon, and I go to the gym around 3 pm. Four nights a week I work dinner service, two days I am at SloPoke. And then factor in travel etc.
What do you do for relaxation?
Powerlifting.
I am told that you have tattoos on your arm, my first thought was, “Does she have a tattoo of a tomato? A garlic clove??” My friend said “I think it says FEMME…” Want to share more about your tattoo, why “femme?”
I have two artichokes, the original artwork from the cover of “The PowerBook” by Jeanette Winterson, oranges on a branch and a few others. My femme tattoo is a visible signifier of my queerness and identity.
As a blind journalist, I always ask this final question: How would you describe your physical appearance to a blind person?
I asked someone to help me with this one: "I'm short but I carry myself as if I'm 7 feet tall. I have eyes as blue as the Caspian Sea. My hair is pink and has become somewhat of a trademark, and I have a few tattoos on my left arm.
This story appeared as an Online Exclusive in December 2019.
